Hot Tub FAQ & Troubleshooting

Heating problems are very common and are usually caused by restricted water flow. Start with these steps:

1. Clean or replace your filters. Filters can look clean but still restrict flow. Wash them with a proper filter cleaner — not just a hose rinse. Having a spare set of filters on hand is a great idea so you can swap them while one set soaks.

2. Test without the filters. Remove the filters and run the spa briefly. If the heater kicks in, your filters are the culprit even if they appear clean.

3. Top up the water level. Make sure the water is above the filter housing. Low water means low flow.

4. Open all jets and air controls. Closed valves restrict flow to the heater.

5. Check the display for error codes such as FLO, DR, DRY, or OH. These point to specific flow or overheat issues.

This is usually an airlock — air trapped inside the pump or plumbing that prevents proper water flow even though the pump motor is running.

Has the water been changed recently? If you didn't fill the spa through the filter standpipe, air can get trapped in the lines and create a bubble in the pump. Always fill through the standpipe to push air out of the system from the bottom up.

You can try gently loosening the pump union slightly to let trapped air bleed out (you'll hear a hiss), then retighten. If the fault persists after this, call a technician to diagnose the issue.

If your spa trips the power specifically when the heater kicks in, the heating element is likely failing. This is one of the most common hot tub service calls.

Turn off the isolator immediately and do not keep resetting the breaker — repeated resets can damage other components like the control board.

Make a note of exactly when it trips (during the heating cycle, when jets start, etc.) and share that with your technician. It helps speed up the diagnosis.

Yes — leaking heater seals often start as a tiny drip but can quickly lead to water damage, swollen cabinet floors, and even electrical faults.

Switch the spa off at the isolator and don't keep topping up the water to compensate — that just hides the problem. Check near the heater housing for puddles or moisture.

A technician can drain below the heater, replace the seals or unions, and pressure test the system to confirm the fix.

Start by resetting your breakers and GFCI plug — this resolves more problems than you'd expect.

Breakers: Turn them all the way off (not just to the middle "tripped" position), wait a few seconds, then flip them fully back on.

GFCI plug: Unplug the spa from the socket, wait about 10 seconds, then plug it back in. Press the reset button on the plug if it has one.

Also check that the isolator switch near your spa is in the on position.

A GFCI that trips repeatedly usually means there's a fault in the heater element, moisture inside the equipment compartment, or a failing electrical component like a pump or ozone generator.

Power the spa down fully for 60 seconds and restart once. If it trips again, don't force it — call a qualified hot tub repair technician.

Small leaks become big problems fast — especially if water starts rotting the cabinet or reaching electrical components.

Drain caps: Make sure all drain plugs are tight (you may have more than one). Check that the rubber gaskets inside them are still in place — these loosen over time.

Common leak points: Heater unions, pump fittings, jet bodies, and pipe joins. Look underneath the spa for drips or water pooling near the equipment pack.

Heater unions: Check for weeping seals around the heater connections.

No. Leaks can cause structural and electrical damage quickly. Even a small drip can lead to a swollen base, corroded fittings, and expensive secondary repairs.

Turn the spa off, stop topping up the water, and book a pressure test or seal replacement. Catching it early is always cheaper than dealing with the consequences.

Cloudy, smelly water is almost always a water chemistry problem. The sanitizer level (chlorine or bromine) has likely dropped too low, allowing bacteria and algae to grow.

Test your water with test strips or take a sample to a local pool and spa supply store. Check pH, alkalinity, and sanitizer levels. Poor water chemistry can also cause foaming, skin irritation, and damage to your equipment over time.

If the water is beyond rescue, a full drain, clean, and refill is the best solution.

Before you worry, check the jet faces themselves. Most hot tub jets rotate clockwise and counterclockwise to adjust pressure — they may simply be turned to the closed position. Give each one a twist and see if flow returns.

Also check the diverter valve and air control levers on the bar top of your spa. These control which jets receive water and how much air is mixed in. Rotating them to different positions can restore flow to jets that seem inactive.

Usually not — this is by design. Your spa's diverter valve and air levers on the bar top control how water flow is distributed between different jet groups.

Try rotating the diverter valve and air levers to different positions. This should balance or redirect jet pressure where you want it. If one zone has no flow at all regardless of valve position, there may be a blockage or broken valve that needs a technician.

If the pump is running but no water is flowing, the most likely cause is a cracked or broken impeller — the spinning part inside the pump that moves water. This is a very common issue and can lead to heater problems if left unaddressed.

Turn the tub off and leave it off. Don't run the pump dry, and don't try to dismantle the wet end without the proper tools and seal kits. A technician can replace the impeller (or the pump if needed) fairly quickly.

When air controllers fail or block up, the jets lose their power and the spa feels flat. This can happen gradually or suddenly, especially after years of use.

Check that the controller knob isn't stuck or cracked. Try turning the tub off and restarting to see if airflow returns. Avoid pulling parts apart yourself — venturi fittings can be fragile, and improper disassembly can cause hidden plumbing issues.

Lock modes vary by brand and model. The unlock procedure is usually a specific button combination on the topside panel — refer to your owner's manual for the exact steps for your spa.

If you don't have the manual, look up your spa brand and model online or contact us and we can walk you through it.

Small faults become expensive fast. A minor drip turns into a swollen base and corroded electrics. Weak flow can overheat your heater. Repeated breaker resets can fry control boards.

Many spa owners keep resetting trips or topping up water to avoid a service call, but this often turns a simple fix into a much more costly repair.