Hot Tub FAQ & Troubleshooting

There are dozens of reasons a spa won't heat — dirty filters, airlock, failed element, bad sensor, or a flow switch fault. Guessing at the cause without proper diagnosis often makes it worse and more expensive.

A misdiagnosed heater issue can turn a $150 fix into a $600 control board replacement.

This is usually an airlock — air trapped in the pump or plumbing after a water change. If the spa wasn't filled through the filter standpipe, air gets trapped in the lines.

Persistent low-flow faults after a refill are one of our most common service calls. Trying to fix it without the right tools can introduce more air or damage the pump union.

If your spa trips the breaker when the heater kicks in, the element is likely failing. This is one of our most common calls — and one of the most mishandled.

Yes. A tiny drip around heater seals leads to a swollen cabinet floor, corroded fittings, and electrical faults fast. Water near electrics is never a small problem.

Switch the spa off at the isolator and stop topping up the water — that just hides the leak.

Before calling, try a full reset: turn breakers fully off then back on, unplug the GFCI for 10 seconds and replug, and check that the isolator switch is on.

A GFCI that trips repeatedly is protecting you from something — usually a failing heater element, moisture in the equipment compartment, or a dying pump or ozone generator.

Tommy Tubs handles GFCI and electrical faults across Jacksonville. We tell you exactly what's causing it and what it will cost before we touch anything.

Small leaks become expensive fast — especially if water reaches electrical components or starts rotting the cabinet base. Common leak points include heater unions, pump fittings, jet bodies, and pipe joins.

Tommy Tubs does full leak searches and pressure tests across Jacksonville. We find the source, not just the symptom.

No. Even a slow drip leads to a swollen base, corroded fittings, and electrical damage within days. Topping up the water hides how fast you're losing water and delays the fix.

Cloudy, smelly water means your sanitizer has dropped too low and bacteria are growing. Poor water chemistry also damages equipment over time.

This could be anything from a closed jet face to a broken diverter valve or a pump issue. Without proper diagnosis, most people end up replacing parts that didn't need replacing.

Sometimes this is normal — your diverter valve controls how flow is distributed. But if one zone has zero flow regardless of valve position, there's likely a blockage or broken valve that won't fix itself.

A humming pump with no water flow almost always means a cracked or broken impeller. Left alone, it will eventually cause your heater to fault too.

Tommy Tubs carries impellers and pump seals on the truck. Most pump repairs are done in one visit.

Failed or blocked air controllers make jets feel flat and weak. Do not pull venturi fittings apart yourself — they're fragile and easy to break.

Lock modes vary by brand. The unlock is a specific button combination on the topside panel — check your owner's manual.

Small faults become expensive fast. A minor drip rots the cabinet. Weak flow overheats the heater. Repeated breaker resets burn out control boards. Most spa owners who delay end up paying three times more.